My Puerto Rican food and coffee adventure
If I had to list my favorite things in the world, they would include good friends, good food and, most importantly, good coffee. And don't forget the sun and the sand, because I'm useless without a relaxing beach vacation every so often.
Luckily for me, I recently had the chance to experience all of those things at once. This opportunity came when my new friend, Luis Peña Crescioni — a Puerto Rican travel blogger and all-around good guy — encouraged me to escape the chilly New York City weather last December. He suggested jumping on an easy 3 1/2-hour domestic flight to Puerto Rico with one simple mission in mind: to eat and drink our way around the sun-drenched island.
Here's how I quickly (and conveniently) found myself trading in my typical Big Apple food deliveries for some of the best dishes and coffee drips in Puerto Rico.
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Getting there
After hanging up with Luis and realizing one quick phone call had just saved me from another few dreary days, I did what I always do when I plan a last-minute trip somewhere tropical. I packed my swim shorts, threw on my shades and grabbed my passport — though I soon realized that one of those items wasn't necessary. As an American citizen making the quick trip to Puerto Rico, a passport isn't required.
I jumped on the J train, journeyed to New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK) — thankfully without my cumbersome winter jacket — and used the time on the train to research the lush Caribbean island. Puerto Rico offers a diverse range of experiences, catering to those who enjoy long, lazy days on the beach, as well as those seeking adventures in the mountains. Not to mention, the island is home to mouthwatering restaurants and world-famous coffee — perfect for a self-declared foodie like me.
Just as quickly as it all started, I found myself sitting in my seat on the San Juan-bound flight knowing that I'd soon be reveling in the sun. In fact, the flight was so brief that it hardly allowed me enough time to watch "Oppenheimer" on the seatback entertainment system. Even better, once I landed, I breezed from the plane to the back seat of an Uber in under 15 minutes since I didn't have to wait to show my passport.
During that ride, I marveled at how wild (and wildly easy) it was to forgo my plans of bundling up and avoiding the cold, trading it all in for a tropical adventure that would combine all the things I love the most — no passport required.
But first, coffee
Since coffee is an essential part of my morning ritual, and Puerto Rico is renowned for its coffee, it made perfect sense to meet up with Luis at a coffee shop to begin our adventure. Knowing Luis is an expert in all things Puerto Rico — and shares my love for good food and caffeine — I trusted his suggestion to meet at the community-adored coffee shop La Isla.
Located in San Juan's charming neighborhood of Miramar, where beautiful homes and gardens are plentiful, La Isla is a wellness-focused cafe. It serves up the best Puerto Rican coffee and features an eco-friendly market stocked with essentials for your home. The cafe also offers plenty of space to work on your laptop, read a book or just hang out with good friends.
This is where Luis comes into the picture. Meeting him outside the adorable white building, I greeted my new friend and food guide with a big hug — and a big thanks for inviting me on this spontaneous adventure.
Before I knew it, we were sitting inside with La Isla's co-founder, Bianca, learning how Puerto Ricans enjoy their coffee (everything includes two espresso shots!) and discovering how community and coffee are intertwined on the island. Bianca explained that La Isla not only hosts yoga classes but also offers a menu of organic and vegan food, catering to those focused on wellness. This experience underscored Luis' point about Puerto Rico's diverse appeal.
Well caffeinated but with rumbling tummies, we said goodbye to Bianca and set off for our next culinary destination, which Luis promised would be a sweet surprise.
A meal made with chocolate
Knowing that I have a sweet tooth and a fondness for chocolate, Luis took me to Chocobar Cortés in nearby Condado (though there are locations in both Old San Juan and even back in New York City in the Bronx) for brunch.
Chocobar Cortés is famous for its array of chocolates — exactly what you'd expect from a chocolate shop. However, what Luis didn't mention was that it's also celebrated for its chocolate-infused dishes. These aren't your typical desserts; they're full-on savory meals that incorporate the Puerto Rican company's inventive creations. Items like chocolate salt and chocolate hot sauce both add subtle and not-so-subtle chocolate flavors to many classic dishes.
If you'd asked me 24 hours ago if I'd ever eat a chocolate grilled cheese, the answer would have been a hard no. Yet, there I was, scarfing down the most delicious twist on my childhood favorite — but this time with sharp cheddar cheese and chocolate butter on brioche bread. And I couldn't get enough of it.
Thankfully, Luis told me there was more food on the way, including avocado toast topped with guacamole, applewood smoked bacon, fried eggs, cherry tomatoes and, of course, a hint of chocolate. To wash it all down, we ordered the Coquito Cortés, Chocobar's unique chocolate-infused twist on the traditional Puerto Rican drink made of rum, coconut and cinnamon.
Before heading to our next destination, Luis pointed out that I could buy my own set of chocolate salts and hot sauces to take home, just in case I ever wanted to get as inventive as Chocobar Cortés in my own kitchen back home.
Lunch I'll never forget
After experiencing a highly inventive and creative brunch, Luis promised to take me to an authentic, local spot for lunch — and that's exactly what I found when we arrived at the ultra-charming La Casita Blanca restaurant.
From the outside, the Little White House (as it's also known) resembled a beautiful home adorned with lovely flowers and plants lining the entrance. Inside, it felt like stepping into a home brimming with love and eclectic design. Bright tablecloths, an array of knickknacks and fun art pieces (clearly collected over time) showcased the spirit of Puerto Rico. Instantly, I fell in love — and I hadn't even eaten yet.
When traveling with someone in the know, like Luis, I find it best to let them order for the table, and he certainly did. Sitting on the open-air roof with views of San Juan, we indulged in a feast fit for royalty. The spread included an array of dishes, from a life-changing starter soup (surprisingly perfect on a hot day) to fried cod fritters, fresh snapper with tostones (fried plantains), mofongo (a very popular dish made with mashed plantains), rice, beans and even morcilla (a type of blood sausage). Luis encouraged me to try the latter, as it was my first experience with this delicacy.
Truly, every dish was better than the last, and with every bite, I worried I should've packed larger shorts, as I simply couldn't stop eating.
But what stood out the most was how the food reflected the familial atmosphere of La Casita Blanca — and of Puerto Rico as a whole. People were relaxed, laughing and sharing bites and stories. As the food disappeared, I began to wonder if I should ever return home.
Coffee from the source
Knowing I absolutely adore coffee, Luis had the brilliant idea of taking me out of San Juan and into the mountains to discover the source of my beloved elixir of life. Thus, we embarked on a drive of just over two hours to Sandra Farms in Adjuntas.
The journey to the farm reinforced the idea that Puerto Rico, despite its small size, packs a powerful punch. It's a place where you could easily start the day with a beach trip and finish it by hiking up some of the lushest mountain terrain imaginable.
At Sandra Farms, we were greeted by Israel, the farm's proprietor. He led us on a walking tour, detailing the history of coffee in Puerto and how it's grown. As a coffee enthusiast, I was surprised to learn that coffee beans originate from a cherrylike fruit picked by hand. Observing the meticulous process, I realized Israel probably wouldn't hire me for this delicate task. However, I thoroughly enjoyed tasting the fruit in its most original form.
We then saw how the fruits were dried and roasted, and afterward, Israel invited us into his home, where a beautiful terrace showcased sweeping views of the mountains. Here, we sampled the finished product: a piping hot pour-over coffee. We also met his lovely wife, Sandra, who shared the story of how they came to own the farm and the joy they find in welcoming visitors from around the world.
Once again, the afternoon coffee was a reflection of what I'd learned Puerto Ricans do best: enjoy good company with good food and good coffee.
The sunset, the sea and the shipping containers
As we headed down from the mountains, Luis suggested that it would only be fitting to conclude our journey in true Puerto Rican fashion: by the sea. So, we made the scenic drive back to San Juan and went to La Marqueta, a unique food hall created from refurbished shipping containers that sits right by the water. There, we indulged in more food, enjoyed a sunset mojito and reflected on our experiences.
Throughout our gastronomic journey, Luis and I sipped strong coffee, savored a Puerto Rican breakfast infused with chocolate and loaded up on hearty traditional foods. We decided to end the experience with a choose-your-own-adventure meal at La Marqueta, which offered everything from burgers and wings to tacos and sushi. This diversity was once again proof of Puerto Rico's ability to cater to many tastes and preferences.
Best of all, open-air La Marqueta offers plenty of outdoor seating overlooking the water. So, we chose our preferred dishes, picked up a few minty mojitos and watched a fiery sunset across the cascading ocean waves. It was the perfect end to an unforgettable getaway.
Over the course of the journey, I fell in love with Puerto Rico — its food and people embraced me like family.
Although I was sad that my adventure with Luis was drawing to a close, my favorite Boricua (the Spanish term for someone from Puerto Rico) planted a seed for a return visit. He noted that while we visited a few of his favorite spots for food and coffee, he had dozens more he wanted to show me in the future when I return to further explore the island's incredible food scene.
And then he reminded me of something else: You're always just a quick flight away.
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